
Palermo
A bunch of vases made during my art residency at @studiomud.it in Palermo, in May 24.
Each one tells a story that I have lived or been told and has stuck in my mind. Stories of Sicily, lions and seals, capers and crazy artists, stone heads and flying chairs.
All the vases were wheelthrown by Alessandro (@studiomud.it) and decorated with the sgraffito technique and cobalt slip.

"Santa Rosalia"
I ask: tell me some stories of Palermo, and the first one is about Santa Rosalia.
She wears a crown of roses and holds a bouquet of white lilies. She is lying in a cave, with a skull and a crucifix. Santa Rosalia is a pale beautiful blonde girl.
According to legend, during a hunt on Monte Pellegrino, the mountain above Palermo, a lion was about to mortally wound King Ruggero; Baldwin bravely saved him by killing the lion.
King Ruggero then asked Baldwin to decide on a reward for his heroic action himself, and he asked for Rosalia’s hand, who, distressed by the proposal, ran away, throwing the whole family into despair. She went to live as a hermit in a mountain cave, in contemplation, until her death.
Centuries later, in 1624, the plague was spreading in Palermo, decimating the population, and the homes of the sick were boarded up with wooden beams so that no one could leave, to prevent conta- gion. Rosalia’s spirit appeared to a sick woman in a dream, showed her the way to find her remains, buried in the cave, and asked her to carry them in procession around the city.
When the bones were found in the cave, an intense perfume of flowers spread.
The procession really succeeded in stopping the plague: in the streets where the Santa’s bones passed, the sick were cured and joined the crowd, consolidating Santa Rosalia’s role as the saviour of Palermo.
Since then, the procession has been repeated every year for the city’s patron saint’s day: an ever-changing statue of the Saint is carried from the Cathedral to the sea on a grandiose triumphal chariot in the shape of a boat.


"Via delle Sedie Volanti"
There are streets in Palermo whose names still have no clear explanation. Other names, on the other hand, originate from strange and perhaps merely legendary events.
I walk around the historic centre of Palermo, and my favourite name, at once mysterious and romantic, is that of Via delle Sedie Volanti (Street of the Flying Chairs). No chairs appeared suspended in mid-air, as in the best stories of paranormal phenomena, nor did anyone throw chairs out of windows during an argument.
This long narrow street is part of a series of streets named after the trades of the artisans who had workshops on the street: Via dei Candelai, dei Chiavettieri, dei Biscottari.
Here in the workshops ‘flying chairs’, or sedan chairs, the favourite means of transport of the nobility, were made. These were small wooden boxes with curtained windows and long front and back poles, used to move easily through the winding and crowded city streets from the 17th century onwards.
These sedan chairs were carried on the shoulders of two strong men who stood in front of and behind the chair and lifted it with the help of leather straps. This particular structure made the sedan chair move by floating a few centimetres above the ground, hence the name flying chair.
Earthenware wheelthrown vase, decorated with cobalt blue engobe through the sgraffito technique.
Usually there were two carriers, one at the front and one at the back, but the flying chairs of important people could be surrounded by a host of uniformed servants who held torches and accompanied the sedan chair on foot.
The rich aristocratic families had very elegant sedan chairs, covered in pure gold and embellished with carvings and friezes and, inside, covered with fabrics and velvets, brocades and pillows.





“The Genius of Palermo (Panormus conca aurea suos devorat alienos nutrit) ”
The Genius of Palermo is one of the city symbols and the lay patron of Palermo. The snake symbolizes Scipio Africanus, who was helped by Palermo in the war against the Carthaginians of Hannibal. In gratitude, Scipio is said to have gifted the city with a golden basin, with a central statue of a warrior with a serpent feeding on his chest. The symbol of the serpent may have more than one meaning: it is linked to land and water, fertility, rebirth and renewal. The snake is also a symbol of prudence, antagonist of the sun, and bearer of knowledge related to physical force. In addition to the serpent, the symbology of the Genius also include a crown, a scepter and a dog.

“The Enchanted Castle”
Filippo Bentivegna (1888-1967) was born in Sciacca on the island of Sicily, the son of a fisherman. Failing to fi nd work in Italy, in 1912 he immigrated to the United States only to return in 1919, disappointed, and apparently somewhat confused by a traumatic experience (generally described as a failed love aff air). Upon his return he was convicted for having fled his military duties, but as he was considered mentally unfi t, he wasn’t sent to prison.
With the money he had earned in America, Bentivegna purchased a small plot of land outside of Sciacca, and moved into a small cabin. Trying to clear the rocky terrain around it, he decided to carve the rocks he pulled out. He continued doing so for the rest of his life, carving over a thousand heads and leaving them on site. When asked why he made these sculptures, Bentivegna would answer that he made them for himself, with no intention of selling them. He named many of them, and considered them his subjects, with himself reigning as king. Th e locals laughed at him and considered him crazy, calling him Filippo di li testi, Filippo of the heads. He also painted the walls of the cabin and carved the trees around the property.
After his death, the site was left unattended, although the family would allow visitors to enter aft er paying a small fee. In 1971, however, an Italian friend of Jean Dubuffet visited the site and purchased some of the works for Dubuff et’s collection (now in the Collection d’Art Brut in Lausanne, Switzerland).
Thanks in part to this visibility, Bentivegna’s work gradually became more appreciated and in 1974 the site was purchased by the Sicilian government.


